Boating South Fork American River

South Fork of the American River Coloma to Folsom Lake

Kathleen loves Groupon and that got us a ticket with Gold Rush Rafting for an exciting afternoon on the South Fork of the American River. We also took our own kayaks, hoping to find an appropriate self-guided trip for our second day.

This three-mile stretch from Marshall Park in Coloma to Camp Lotus is a popular run for beginning kayakers. Our raft trip would start across from Camp Lotus at the Gold Rush site and continue down into the "Gorge" to Folsom Lake. Had we done our research, we would have a better sense that the river we were covering on the rafting trip was a little beyond the capabilities of our open kayaks or ability to maneuver them. Still, the rafting trip was great.

The "Lower" or "Gorge" runs from Lotus to Salmon Falls. From the last put-in at Camp Lotus (mile 3) to the takeout at Salmon Falls is 11 miles. Most of this stretch is undeveloped; much of it in the public hands (BLM-managed). It's a beautiful run.

Miles 3 - 9.7 are Class II+. Fowler's Rock, mile 9.8, marks the beginning of the five-mile "Gorge" stretch, which has several Class III rapids and a quite a bit of continuous Class II+. Much of the Gorge is narrow, with steep walls, and at high water there is nowhere to eddy out.

On Friday, we went with Gold Rush Rafting. Their site is a little downriver from Lotus and with them we did the 10 mile run through the Class II+ and Class III rapids to Folsom Lake.

On Saturday, we took our sea kayaks on the 6-mile run from Coloma (Marshall Park) to Greenwood Creek. The first 3 miles from Coloma to Lotus was, as advertised, perfect for our hard shell sit-on-top kayaks. The second 3 miles, rated as Class II+, was a bit over our head, often literally. It included the first couple of miles that we had done on the rafts but things look really different from a kayak. Really!

Mile 0.0 Marshall Gold Discovery State Historical Park

River left in the long flat stretch known as "Coloma Lake" is the North Beach River Access Area, put-ins only.

I dropped Kathleen and the kayaks and took the Outback downriver to the Greenwood Creek parking area, where we would be taking out. While waiting for the shuttle, I talked to a guy who was doing a bicycle shuttle back to the same put in. We talked about the bike ride and the river. Meeting him was fortuitous, as it worked out. He, his wife, and his kids helped us immeasurably, once we were on the river.

Mile 0.6 Beginner's Hole Rapid, Class II

Also known as "Taco Bender" this is a fun little play spot at levels under 2000 cfs. So far so good.

Mile 1.1 Old Scary Rapid, Class II

The river bends sharply left, with an island midstream. Old Scary used to be a lot scarier before one of the floods rearranged it, but it still deserves attention from beginners. At flows over 1200, the left chute is easily runnable but be aware the current will send you right. If you run right of the island (the usual route), stay to the left side of the channel to avoid the big eddy on the right.

We ended up in the big eddy and had to portage around one set of rocks to get back in the channel. Kathleen was a little shaken but definitely wanted to continue.

Mile 1.3 Laughing Eddy, Class II

Also known as Blue House Eddy or Whiplash. On the river by our campsite.

Mile 1.4 Highway 49 Bridge

River access.

Mile 2.0 Henningsen Lotus County Park

River access, lots of parking, modest fee.

Mile 2.5 Lotus Ledge surfing hole, Class II

This little ledge hole was wiped out in the flood of January, 1997, and is mostly a riffle. We met a couple, including the cyclist I had met at Greenwood, who were guiding their kids down the river. They were in hard shell or inflatable kayaks. They gave us a lot of help, especially when we got into the II+ rapids beyond Lotus Camp.

Mile 3.0 Camp Lotus

River left, campground and river access. We found a quiet space for lunch.

Mile 3.0 Barking Dog Rapid, Class

Described as a fun little surfing wave just downstream of Camp Lotus - Squirrely water, good roll practice spot.

On Saturday in our kayaks, this was the first real test. Our informal guides had asked us about our plan for this. The hard shell kayakers hang out here and surf back up stream or across the rapids. You have to negotiate an appropriate time to go through. I followed a raft and Kathleen followed me.

Kathleen made it through and headed downriver. I took the kayak through and eddied out to wait for Kathleen. When I reentered the main flow, I caught sideways, spilled and swam, bumped over rocks, wrapped on one rock, and finally caught up with my kayak in an eddy below. Some scary moments but you don’t have time to do anything but try to keep you feet up and your head above water.

When I finally caught up with my kayak, I was just above where Kathleen was waiting but she couldn’t see me until I got back in and continued down the river. Are we having fun yet?

Mile 4.6 Current Divider Rapid, Class II+

I dumped going over the first ledge but stayed with my kayak in a center eddy created by the rocks. After a little more swimming, I got to a part of the eddy where I could stand and re-board my kayak. In the safety talks, you a warned not stand because of the danger of getting a foot caught under a rock and the current pulling you under water. In this case, I was on a relatively quiet gravel bar in the midst of all this rushing water. Kathleen made it through and could see me from downstream. I finally got back in the boat and continued.

Mile 5.2 Highway Rapid, Class II

Entering this rapid, I was trapped between a grounded raft and a rock. They shifted to allow me to slide down and I went through the rapid backwards but stayed upright. No swimming. Kathleen and I were in sight of each other but there was no way to kayak together. The rafters looked at my sit-on-top “Ocean Kayak” and asked me if this was my first time, a question I must have heard a dozen times during the last 3 miles.

Mile 5.5 Swimmer's Rapid, Class II+

Swimmer's is a great spot for raft passengers to jump in and experience what it feels like to swim a rapid.

Kathleen ended up swimming more of this than I did. There was a group practicing rescues and they threw her a line but it was too late to help. She needed to continue down anyway to find her kayak. I made it though the entry way but eventually was out of my boat as well. Our informal guides and other kayakers were very helpful.

In all I took four unplanned swims in the last 3 miles. Two of them happened on Class II+ rapids and I could have gotten hurt. On three of them, I lost something, first my hat, then one of my kayaking sandals, and the other. One of my many helpers suggested I needed to upgrade my PFD (personal flotation device or life jacket.) Also that we consider inflatable kayaks if we intended to run the II+ stretch in the future.

Mile 6.0 Greenwood Creek

Greenwood Creek enters on river right. River access is via a trail just downstream of the creek. With more help from our informal guides and other kayakers, we got our kayaks to the take out spot and eventually dragged all our gear up the quarter mile to the Outback I had parked earlier. Exhilarated and exhausted.

Our Raft trip on Friday continued down to Folsom Lake. This includes the 5-mile “gorge” with a series of Class IIIs. If we had missed the Greenwood Creek takeout when we were kayaking, it was a river of no return situation, something I fretted about on the run whenever I had time to fret.

On the Friday raft trip, we bounced through the following rapids, among others

Mile 7.9 Gorilla Rock

Also known as Convict Rock, this house-sized outcropping really does look like a gorilla head.

Mile 9.8 Fowler's Rock Rapid, Class III-

Fowler's infamous wrap rock marks the beginning of the Gorge. At high water, the rock isn't a problem -- but the hole is humongous.

Mile 10.9 Lost Hat, Class II+

This is the lead-in to Satan's, not a good place to be daydreaming! Also known as Highway to Hell. Our rafting guide did not think this an appropriate name but my experience was that on three earlier rapids I had lost not only my hat but also both of my kayaking sandals.

Mile 10.9 Satan's Cesspool, Class III+

Mile 11.0 Son of Satan's Rapid, Class II+

Also known as Dead Man's Drop or Lost Lunch.

Mile 11.6 Lower Haystack Canyon Rapid, Class II+

Bouncy, bouncy!

Mile 12.2 Bouncing Rock Rapid, Class II+

The river bends left, and this little hole river right has flipped many an unsuspecting kayak or small raft.

Mile 12.6 Hospital Bar Rapid, Class III

Hospital Bar is a big drop into a bouncy wave train at most flows -- when you drop into it the first time it's a long way down. (Photo by Sierra Shutterbug)

Mile 12.7 Recovery Room Rapid, Class II+

Mile 12.8 Folsom Lake maximum elevation

If the reservoir's full, it's a flat-water paddle the rest of the way. Our rafts were towed to the takeout by a personal watercraft.

Ponderosa Camp

We camped two nights an RV site near the Highway 49 Bridge. On our Saturday kayak run, we passed our camp just below Laughing Eddy rapids and just above the bridge. When we dragged ourselves back Saturday evening, we were done. We used the car and the bicycles as drying racks. Then we went out to dinner at the Sierra Nevada House, a converted 19th century hotel with a great menu. Best roast chicken I have had.

The gear took a while to dry. We discovered the meaning of an “almost dry bag.” The next day Kathleen cooked a wonderful breakfast before our trip home.

We arrived back in time for a friend’s memorial service. We were also able to enjoy San Francisco’s first sunny Sunday in about 3 months.

Sunday night I did the web research I should have done before the trip. Now I know we should have planned Coloma to Camp Lotus for our kayaking trip. Once we were more experienced, we might have been better prepared for the Class II+ rapids in the last three miles. Or perhaps we should have rented inflatable, self-bailing kayaks for that run. They were clearly having a better time of it.

However, hindsight is always 20-20 and often boring as well. As one of our many rescuers said with a big smile as he was directing my last swim to the shore, “Ignorance often leads to great adventure.”

Jim Galvin San Francisco, CA email: JamesLGalvin@yahoo.com